The
Nigerian Dwarf is a minor breed, considered to be a dairy goat in
miniature, and so to have the graceful, refined, proportions of the
dairy goat at about 1/3 the size: Maximum height at the withers (high
point of shoulder) for does: 22 1/2", bucks: 23 1/2".
The care of your Nigerian is similar to the care of other goats. Good
management (selection, nutrition, parasite control, health care, housing
and responsibile breeding) is the foundation af your herd and this
will determine the ultimate condition and confirmation of your stock.
Goats are herd animals, so depend on the companionship of other goats.
Two goats make a herd, as do a goat and a sheep, if raised together.
A single goat is a miserable goat and will make you a miserable goat
owner.
For their housing you must provide a barn, shed, or a large dog house
so they can get out of rain, snow, wind and sun. You must provide
a sturdy fence; the BEST fencing is four foot high by 16 foot long
graduated livestock panels or "poultry/rabbit" fence with wrapped
rather than welded corners is ideal and will last. As you think about
fencing, remember that your goal is twofold: to keep your goats where
you want them, and to protect them from dogs and coyotes who are their
greatest threat. Never trust a dog or dogs with your goats! Dogs are
predators--goats are prey.
The feeding requirements of your goats depends on their age and gender.
As ruminants, they depend on a diet primarily of hay. Sweet smelling,
non dusty, second cut grass or grass/legume hay is ideal for all and
should be fed free choice.
Males are prone to developing kidney/urinary tract stones (calculi)
so should be maintained on a low protein, low calcium diet. A mineral
balance achieved with a goat-formula mineral supplement aids in the
prevention of urinary calculi. I recommend feeding males limited grain
once they are over 6 months to one year of age, aumented with a goat-formulated
mineral supplement. Avoiding high protein feed supplements significantly
reduces the risk of developing urinary calculi (blockage). You can
give your wether or buck a vegi or fruit treat while the girls get
their grain. (If you insist on feeding grain to (mature) males, use
a "Lamb Finisher" pellet. These contain a urine acidifier, ammonium
chloride, which helps prevent calculi and is the grain of choice;
not more than 1/8-1/4 cup per day). If you've had a problem with UC
you might try adding extra urine acidifiers.
Does benefit from alfalfa and/or increased grain -16 or 18% protein
goat feed (ex. Caprine Challenger by Blue Seal) when pregnant or lactating.
Mature non-breeding, animals may be maintained on a good quality hay
alone. Kids are growing and benefit from a high protein diet. I strongly
recommend feeding kids a starter pellet medicated with a coccidiastat
for their first 6 months. It is also a good idea to have your vet
check the stool for coccidia and other parisites regualrly when your
goats are young and anually when mature.
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Goats
enjoy a variety of extras: a salt block, fruit and vegetable scraps,
baked goods in moderation, tree prunings (apple, pine, spruce, maple,
willow...). Be careful to avoid mold! Goats are very susceptible
to mold toxins. Avoid toxic plants!: Rhododendron, azalea, yew(looks
like spruce but no scent), laurel, cherry... these can kill in very
small doses. Never change the diet suddenly, always introduce new
or extras in small quantities. If your goat over eats (gorges on
grain) that which it is not accustomed, watch it carefully for signs
of illness and be prepared to call the vet.
Goats need fresh water at all times. They also benefit from a salt
block. A mineral supplement formulated for goats should be provided
(see references: Springbriar).
Goats need to be immunized annually
for: C/D Tetanus and Rabies and receive a Selenium injection if
living in a deficient area (the northeast). For the best of health,
you should deworm your goats at least four times a year. The treatment
I have come to like the best is "Eprinex", a pour-on antiparasitic
available from Jeffers Supply. It controls both internal and external
parasites, has no milk or meat withdrawal time, and is very convenient
to administer. Ivermectin paste (available at feed store) is a good
broad range wormer. These should be rotated with Fenbebdazol paste
to avoid resistance of the parasites. Pasture rotation is your best
tool in parasite control.
Hooves must be be trimmed as needed: the
bottom should be flat without edges curling under. Scissors type
garden pruning shears work well.
Goats are sociable, playful creatures.
They enjoy gentle attention; do not play aggressively with them
or they will become aggressive (if you rub their head playing butting
games they will but you unpredictably). They especially enjoy a
neck or chest rub. They enjoy climbing and jumping on rocks, stumps,
and platforms made for their pleasure (and your entertainment).
When you bring your goat home, expect that it will be frightened
and nervous until it gets used to it's new home. It will probably
be a bit noisy, may act shy, and will need TLC and reassurance that
it's new home is a safe, comfortable, happy place. It usually takes
about a week to settle in. Don't chase your goat, let him/her come
to you; it helps to offer a treat (handful of grain or vegie-fruit
treat).
The Rosasharn herd is tested annually for Caprine Arthritic
Encephalitis (CAE) and Johnnes Disease (as well as TB and Bruselosis):
they are consistently negative. They do not have contagious abscesses
(Caseous Lymphadenitis). These are the three most serious, deadly,
contagious goat diseases. Beware of these when adding new goats
(or other ruminants) to your heard.
A
healthy goat appears contented, alert, has an apitite and chews
its cud. Its coat is smooth and glossy, skin is clean and pliable.
One can feel the ribs under the skin but bones do not appear to
jut out. The manure consists of formed, slightly moist pellets which,
with the urine should be passed without effort. The normal body
tempature of a goat is 102-103F. The normal pulse is 70-80/minute.
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